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Description of Nuremberg
Nothing more magnificent or splendid is to be found in the whole of Europe. When one perceives this glorious city from afar, its splendour is truly dazzling. When one enters it, one's original impression is confirmed by the beauty of the streets and the comeliness of the houses. The burghers' dwellings seem to have been built for princes. In truth, the kings of Scotland would be glad to be housed so luxuriously as the ordinary citizen of Nurnberg .
This mid-fifteenth-century eulogy, written by the future Pope Pius II, shows the esteem in which medieval NUREMBERG was held. As the favourite royal residence and seat of the first Diet called by each new emperor, the city then functioned as the unofficial capital of Germany. It was a status which had been achieved with remarkable speed, as Nurnberg was only founded in the eleventh century; thereafter, its position at the intersection of the north-south and east-west trading routes led to economic prosperity, and, as a corollary, political power. The arts flourished, too, though the most brilliant period was not to come until the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, when the roll-call of citizens was led by Albrecht Durer , Germany's most complete personification of Renaissance Man.
Like other wealthy European cities, Nurnberg went into gradual decline once the maritime trading routes to the Americas and Far East had been established; moreover, the official civic adoption of the Reformation cost the city the patronage of the Catholic emperors. It made a comeback in the nineteenth century, when it became the focus for the Pan-German movement, and the Germanisches Nationalmuseum - the most important and extensive collection of the country's arts and crafts - was founded at this time. This symbolic status was given a horrifying twist during the Third Reich; even today the city's image is marred by its association with the regime, a tangible reminder of which survives in the weather-beaten Nazi architecture of suburban Luitpoldhain, site of the mass rallies.
There's so much to see in Nuremberg that two or three days are probably the minimum necessary to get to know the place. It's especially enticing in the summer, when the Altstadt is alive with street theatre and music, and there are open-air pop concerts in the parks and stadiums; but there's always a wide and varied range of nightlife. In winter, the renowned month-long Christkindlesmarkt (Christmas market) is held in the city.
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